The potential for climbing "east of Everest" was first recognised by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of that team, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents, of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse being made on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow.
They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent. The South-East Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 metres to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02: preparation for expedition.
Day 03: Expedition Briefing in tourism Board
Day 04: Fly to Lukla and Trek to chutanga.
Day 05: Chutanga to Naulek camp
Day 06: Naulek to Kothey camp
Day 07: Kothey to Thangnak camp
Day 08: Thangnak to Khare camp
Day 09: Khare to Mera base camp
Day 10: Mera base camp to Mera High camp
Day 11: Mera summit and back to mera base camp
Day 12: Mera base camp to setopokhari
Day 13: Setopokhari to Baruntse Base camp
Day 14 -26th climbing period of Baruntse 7129m
Day 27: Baruntse Base camp to Amphu lapcha base camp
Day 28: Amphulapcha cross and O/N in camp
Day 29-32: trek down to Lukla
Day 33: Lukla to Kathmandu.
March 09, 2017
I spent very memorable days in the Everest region in Nepal. I used to dream to see this highest peak of the world and now I arrested it in my camera. My guide arranged everything and helped me a lot.…
- HEN, Nepal